Rules was established by Thomas Rule in 1798; it's the oldest restaurant in London. Throughout its long history the tables of Rules have been crowded with writers, artists, lawyers, journalists and actors. Marlene and I dined at Rules in 1977; we were two twenty-something fledgling foodies. I remember being intimidated by the doorman and ordering hare-blood soup. This time around, the doorman at the Maiden Lane establishment in Covent Garden was anything but intimidating; he even took our picture.
Rules is plush and elegant, with red-gold carpet and crimson-velvet booths. The walls are crammed with drawings, paintings and cartoons. Deer-head antlers and trophies are mounted as though in a stately home.
Rules serves traditional British food, specializing in classic game cookery, oysters, pies and puddings. They do not serve bread. Our formally attired waiter was friendly, knowledgeable and helpful; he answered our questions and made suggestions. Marlene started with the foie gras and I started with the fillet of hare; there was no hare-blood soup this time around. The foie gras was melt-in-your-mouth delicious. It was rich, but not overpowering. The hare, prepared rare and served with chanterelles, was tender and not overly gamy. It was an excellent dish.
Terrine of Foie Gras, with chicory, grapes & muscat dressing
Seared Fillet of Hare, with chestnut puree & pepper sauce Marlene and Gary each ordered the whole roast grouse as their second course. Our waiter cautioned it would smell and taste gamey and that he did not recommend it for first-timers. He also offered to take the meat off the bone, as opposed to serving the whole grouse, which is the traditional presentation. The decision was made to forge ahead with the whole bird.
Whole Roast Young Grouse, with cabbage and crisps The grouse were brought out together on a single platter, along with cabbage and crisps, then transferred to separate plates, each plate containing plumb sauce and a crostini with mousse.
Grouse in progress The grouse was incredible; it was the best dish of the evening. It did not smell and it did not taste overly gamey. It had a consistency similar to pigeon, but sweeter tasting; it tasted as if it had been smoked. We will definitely be searching for grouse on St. Louis menus. I ordered the roe deer as my second course and, after the spectacular grouse, it was almost anticlimactic. It was served rare, with a side dish of mashed potatoes. The deer was tender, appropriately gamey, and delicious.
Roast Loin of Roe Deer, roast artichoke, salsify & hazelnut cream Marlene and I split the sticky toffee pudding for desert. It was a sweet finish to a sweet meal.
Sticky Toffee Pudding, with caramelized walnuts John Walsh states in The Independent, "You end a meal in Rules beaming at your great good fortune in being alive, having all five senses and being able to eat God's English bounty, expertly cooked and served as it might have been for Graham Greene or Ava Gardner, only probably much better." We agree. Copyright © 2013 TwoForTheTable.com |
